Unisub Cutting/Machining Information
HARDBOARD - 1/8" and 1/4" hardboard, coated
(1) or (2) sides
Saws - Conventional carbide tipped woodworking saw blades work
well. Can
also be cut on tabletop safety saw with smaller diameter, multiple tooth
blades.
Laser Engravers - Cuts well with 25 watt system, faster with 50
watt
system.
Routers - A bull-nose or slightly rounded profile is suggested
for all
hardboard that has been straight cut with a saw, as the edges are very
vulnerable to damage and chipping. However, this is not necessary for
laser
cut items as the edge generated by the heat "seals" the paper
fibers.
Shearers - Not recommended.
MEDIUM DENSITY FIBERBOARD - 1/4" - 1 1/4"
M.D.F., coated (1) or (2) sides
Saws - Conventional carbide tipped woodworking saw blades work
well.
Laser Engravers - Cuts OK with 35 watt system, but 100 watt recommended.
Routers - Carbide tipped, fluted down-shear bit works best to
minimize
chipping.
Shearers - Not recommended.
FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC - .090 nominal, +/-
.015 thickness tolerance
Saws - Same as hardboard.
Laser Engravers - Not recommended.
Routers - Solid carbide 2 - flute straight cutter. A bull-nose
or slightly
rounded profile is suggested on (FRP) that has been cut with a saw or
router as the edges are vulnerable to chipping. This would not be necessary
for parts that are covered or encapsulated (i.e. desk name plate that
slides into a frame).
Shearers - Not recommended.
ALUMINUM - .025 and .045 (add .005 for coating) (1)
side only
Shearers - Shear cut only. Keep edge sharp to minimize chipping.
PHENOLIC LAMINATE - .050 coated (1) side only
Saws - Same as hardboard.
Laser Engravers - Not recommended.
Routers - Only when laminated to substrate such as particleboard
or
fiberboard, otherwise vulnerable to chipping.
Shearers - Not recommended.
Corner Punch - Can be used.
CEMENT BOARD - 8mm coated (1) side only
Water-Jet Cutting System - The only cutting/machining method
recommended is water-jet.
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